Travel review: Glasgow, Scotland

For years Glasgow had a rather dubious reputation. It wasn't the obvious place to take a weekend break, for even though it has always had a wealth of beautiful buildings, museums and art galleries – it was a physically dirty place with a high level of violence.

I first visited the city when a student back in the dark ages but with the protection of the then boyfriend – a Glaswegian. He himself was a little wary of some areas and was a very good guide. Not long after that the city fathers made a determined effort to clean up Scotland's second city and over the years the place has been utterly transformed. Major changes began in 1988 when it was the third UK city in a series of five to host a fantastic Garden Festival attracting people from not just Scotland or the UK but from many other places in the world. The festival was built on deserted dockland alongside the River Clyde and was something I've remembered ever since I visited. Two years later Glasgow was the European City of Culture and people started to think of it as a destination as a tourist.

Now the place is buzzing. Stylish bars, restaurants and shops offer a great social life along with the sumptuous shopping offered! Live music of all genres is to the fore along with theatre and culture – several top rate museums, a fascinating cathedral and the Gothic Necropolis – it started as an open area to be enjoyed and then became the graveyard of the mainly rich. It sits at the top of a hill overlooking St Mungo's with ornate and magnificent statements of the people lying under the ground or inside the imposing mausoleums dotted around. At twilight with sinister shapes standing stark against the darkening sky it can be quite spooky.

And so where to stay to discover this vibrant city? Just a short taxi ride from Glasgow Central Station (you can also easily walk it) is Blythswood Square Hotel, overlooking Blythswood Square on Blythswood Hill!

The history of the area is fascinating.

Blythswood Hill was developed as a result of the westward expansion of the city in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Likened to Edinburgh's New Town, it housed the city's wealthy merchants and shipping magnates in four (or more) floored Georgian townhouses. The centrepiece of the area is Blythswood Square, which was originally intended by the Georgian architects and planners of the time to be the "new" centre of the city, and, although this is largely true from a geographical standpoint, George Square which fronts the Glasgow City Chambers still remains Glasgow's "official" centre.

Blythswood Hill became infamous as the home of Madeleine Smith, a young woman who in 1857 was tried for the murder of her lover Pierre Emile L'Angelier. Although the verdict was not proven the story scandalised Scottish society, and is recounted in Jack House's 1961 book Square Mile of Murder.

Today, relatively few people live in Blythswood Hill, it is now mainly offices and forming, along with neighbouring Anderston, Glasgow's financial district . Perhaps the most attractive building in the area is the hotel which began life in 2009 with the conversion of the former RSAC building by the Town House Company. Now holding five stars, it provides a good location for exploration. And it provides first class service and accommodation.

The contemporary rooms feature Italian marble bathrooms, tea and coffee making facilities, satellite TV and free WiFi. Suites add separate lounge areas and espresso machines. The penthouse has a private dining room, free minibar and rooftop terrace.

• Address: 11 Blythswood Square, Glasgow G2 4AD

• Phone:0141 248 8888

• Website: http://www.townhousecompany.com/blythswoodsquare/

• Rooms from £149 including breakfast. There are also regular offers

• Virgin trains: www.virgintrains.co.uk Single fares to Glasgow: From Wolverhampton, from £15 Standard / £50 First Class From Crewe, from £11.50 Standard / £38.50 First Class[/breakout]

There's a stylish cocktail bar, and a second offering light meals and an afternoon tea of the very best. The modern restaurant serves a mix of classic and a little off-beat cuisine. Of particular note during my dinner were the scallops – crispy on the outside and just warmed through. Perfection. Oh and there was the stunning dessert and I could go on and on. There's an a la carte menu and an excellent Market Menu which changes regularly.

And now to the award-winning spa where facilities include nine treatment rooms, a thermal suite, two relaxation pools and more. It is a place for ultimate relaxation.There's an an exclusive range of treatments and I enjoyed a scrub, wrap and massage based on seaweed and spring water from the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. I floated out afterwards.

To get to my 'destination' I went with Virgin Trains who offer a regular service. If you book in advance you can get a great deal on first class tickets. For that you get spacious accommodation, tables laid out with coffee cups and glasses and very pleasant seat service providing cold drinks, alcoholic beverages, snacks and delicious sandwiches and baguettes.

By Sharon Walters