Travel review: Thame, Oxfordshire

When the opportunity presented itself to make a return visit to the pretty market town of Thame, Oxfordshire, I was certainly interested.

And when the destination turned out to be a hotel I had last visited around 20 years ago, I was intrigued.

The Spread Eagle has been at the beating heart of the historic town since the 16th Century. Now certified a Grade I listed hotel, its prominence amongst the artisan retailers has made it the perfect filming location for ITVs Midsomer Murders, with quaint butchers, bakers, delicatessens and teashops, perfect settings for a fictional killing or two.

Thame has a free Midsomer Murders walking trail covering the many locations found in the town. Like nearby Wallingford, Thame features as the fictional location Causton and recently overtook Wallingford's claim to the title as 'most filmed Causton'. Thame's distinctive town hall often features as Causton Arts Centre as well as Causton Town Hall.

The Spread Eagle became The Morecroft Hotel in Midsomer Life with scenes shot both inside and out and in the rear car park. Barnaby tries to break up a fight here and gets punched in the face. The interior also features in Vixens Run, and in the same episode the Oxfam Bookshop, across the road, became Jenny's Cover to Cover book shop.

Other nearby attractions include Oxford, the city of dreaming spires, Blenheim Palace, and the Silverstone.

Legend has it that William Shakespeare also visited Thame during his time as a strolling player. A colourful history has seen many a famous patron cross The Spread Eagle's threshold. It has played host to historic figures such as King Charles II, plus notable writers including Evelyn Waugh and John Fothergill.

Who? Well, John Fothergill is the author of a masterful little book called An Innkeeper's Diary.

First published in 1931 by Chatto and Windus, the book has quietly become a classic. And The Spread Eagle is the place to read it as it is here that Fothergill managed to elevate it to one of the finest places in the UK to stay, or dine, during the 1920s and 30s.

The hotel is instantly recognisable by its 30ft original Spread Eagle crest that has welcomed travellers for more than 100 years. Heritage and personality have been preserved on the inside too, where The Cockpit, seen next to the entrance, now provides an intimate space for up to eight people for private dinners or meetings. It was historically used for cockfights in ye olde days. The adjacent bar area has tastefully unusual furniture, both stylish and inviting,

High-wing back dining chairs sit elegantly on the light oak-wood flooring of the restaurant, with an oversize silver knife and fork sculpture suspended overhead.

• The Spread Eagle, Cornmarket, Thame, Oxfordshire, OX9 2BW

• Website: www.spreadeaglethame.co.uk

• Telephone: 01844 213661

• Email: reservations@spreadeaglethame.co.uk

• Rooms from £90 B&B, and from £161 for a suite.

• On site car parking is available at a cost of £3 per 24 hours. On presentation of the car park voucher you will be entitled to a hot drink or soft drink.[/breakout]

The restaurant serves quality food including breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea.

I can't enthuse enough about the restaurant. My delicious starter of chicken liver parfait, served in a cute jar alongside a beautiful apple and thyme chutney, was heavenly with the crisp crostini.

If I had been impressed by the starter, which is a given, the main was to blow me away. You simply must order the dish known as pork plate. Such an elegant platter is worthy of a prettier name. Slow cooked belly pork, parma ham wrapped tenderloin, quail scotch egg and smoked mash potato is served with apple puree, garlic green beans and gravy. I could have eaten a plate of the quail scotch eggs on their own. A wonderful plate of food, not to be missed.

The 35 guestrooms are reached by a maze of corridors and a series of higgledy-piggledy staircases, adding to the character of the hotel. Each guestroom is tastefully decorated in a romantic style, many with four-poster beds and vintage furniture, plus modern amenities such as flat screen TVs, tea and coffee making facilities and sleek en suites.

The hotel offers a choice of three spectacular suites.

By Paul Naylor