Travel review: Carcassonne, Southern France

Two perfect days . . . a superb hotel with excellent food and wine all set in a hilltop citadel with the added bonus of fascinating history surrounding it and a short hop to the vineyards and wealth of Cathar castles to explore.

The Hotel de la Cité is a wonderful sanctuary within the walls of the medieval city of Carcassonne, surrounded by beautiful gardens, terraces and a stunning swimming pool.

Five stars and well-deserved, this hotel offers a perfect location to discover Carcassonne history with the Basilica of Saint-Nazaire a few steps away and just a few minutes walk to the Comtal Château and a walk around the inner ramparts.

The city has 53 watchtowers and two concentric walls, a unique architectural complex which is classified as UNESCO World Heritage Site and is the oldest fortified town in Europe.

But back to the star of my visit, the hotel itself.

The Hotel de la Cité was created in 1906 thanks to two men, Michel Jordy, an art-lover, historian and archaeologist, and Jean Cadenat, a French fish scientist, who wanted to give Carcassonne a hotel fit to welcome the increasing number of tourists new tourists. For many years, it was the only hotel inside the ramparts. There were just six rooms back then but today there are 60, including 21 suites and junior suites.

Over the years it has welcomed many famous guests including Sir Winston Churchill and Princess Grace of Monaco and more modern celebrities such as Sting and Deep Purple. But whoever you are, guests are all treated exactly the same – famous or not.

The start of your stay indicates just what will follow.

Cars are not allowed within the walls and whether you arrive by your own vehicle or in a taxi from the airport or railway station, each guest is welcomed at the foot of the city and taken up to the hotel. As you step through into the lobby, the hotel wraps itself around you – there is no stuffiness here but at the same time you are not stifled by over attentiveness.

The balance is perfect.

In the lobby is an impressive sculpted wood fresco depicting the influential figures that marked the history of Carcassonne such as Simon de Montfort and Saint Dominic, and the impressive great wooden staircase on the ground floor is classified as historic.

The "salle des correspondances" is perfect to relax and take a drink in comfortable leather armchairs while taking a look at the books and registers in the hotel's library.

Rooms are all individual and very well appointed.

There are luxury bathroom toiletries, top-class coffee makers, fluffy robes and plenty of towels.

Breakfast is one of the best I have had in a hotel. The superb buffet selection offers an endless selection of cold meats, cereals, jams, honeys, cheeses, fruit, yoghurts, pastries, breads and so much more.

And what is good to see is that the hotel supports local producers, labelling items to show where they originate. There is also a small hot selection prepared to order including simply perfect breakfast omelettes.

And so on to the restaurant proper – La Barbacane, Michelin-starred offering a selection of dishes created by Chef Jérôme Ryon and Head Pastry cook Régis Chanel who have gone along the route of traditional cuisine with elegance and a Michelin touch! I recommend a lunchtime treat with their seasonal menu three courses including wine, water and coffee for around £31 (difficult to be more accurate with exchange rate! But currently 38 euros).

For those who enjoy a relaxing experience the Cinq Mondes Spa at the hotel offers a variety of treatments including massages, a sensorial shower, a Turkish bath and an essential oils jacuzzi for two.

This is a hotel where you can take time out for romance, discover history and experience wellness – and not forgetting time for families as the hotel caters for children as well.

And above all the staff at the hotel are extremely helpful, professional and provide outstanding service.