Food review: Bibendum, Michelin House, Chelsea

Bosi duly obliges, earning the rosettes in less than a year and securing a Michelin star in the process – one of three awarded in Ludlow that year. His impact is nothing short of phenomenal. Instead of returning to France, as planned, he falls in love with Ludlow and opens his own restaurant, Hibiscus. It wins two Michelin stars, the only Shropshire restaurant EVER to do so. And then Bosi realises that in order to achieve his potential he needs to move on. So he ups sticks and lands in London’s Maddox Street where he repeats the trick and secures two more Michelin stars.

Lauded as one of the finest chefs in the UK – and among the best in Europe – his reputation soars. But he gradually realises his ability to grow his 36-seat restaurant is limited and so he sells it. Then, unexpectedly, he gets a call from Sir Terence Conran, the founder of Habitat, who asks him to revive his own flagship restaurant, Bibendum, in Chelsea.

It is a moment for carpe diem. Bosi seizes the challenge and, along with his wife, Lucy, invests every penny he has on turning Bibendum into a destination restaurant. Within a year, Bosi has secured two Michelin stars for a third time. His story is utterly remarkable.

Having outlined our subject, it’s time to answer our initial question: why in the name of Alain Ducasse are we swanning around London instead of reviewing a table in Ludlow? The answer is simple. Although Bosi now cooks in London, in some ways, he also didn’t leave Ludlow. He co-owns The Church Inn and has a hotel in the town, as well as family. His frequent visits to south Shropshire mean you’re as likely to bump into him in the High Street as the town’s mayor. So following the fortunes of Bosi in London is a little like following the fortunes of Joe Hart with Man City and England. Why wouldn’t we?

In a lifetime of overachievement, however, Bibendum is Bosi’s greatest triumph, though the influence of his beloved wife, Lucy, cannot be overstated. His biggest supporter and most reliable critic has been instrumental in helping the Lyonnaise chef realise his greatest vision. Bibendum is Bosi’s Waterside Inn, his Le Gavroche and he will, you would imagine, realise his dream of securing a third Michelin star at the architecturally remarkable building in London’s Fulham Road. Bosi has poured his heart and soul into creating a nonpareil gastronomic destination.

My partner and I visited for a weekend lunch and were rendered speechless by remarkable food, exceptional service, an elegant dining room and outstanding hospitality. The gulf in class between Bosi’s restaurant and others at one and two star level is remarkable. His food is precise, deftly seasoned, presented as though it were a work of art and has flavours that live long in the memory. Onehundredandfiftyfivepointthree miles might seem like a long way to go for lunch, but Bosi makes it worth it. He is a genuine maestro and sets standards to which others aspire. After 20 years in England, he is a leading light – a Real Madrid of the kitchen who, like the serial Champions League winners, has a knack of delivery on the biggest stage.

We were greeted at the door by Bosi’s esteemed and classy personal assistant, Natalie Hadley, who, like many of his team, moved with him from Hibiscus, in Mayfair. A breathless lunch followed.

Bread was magnificent, with slices of remarkably well-aerated sourdough standing out. The amuse bouche comprised Parmesan gougeres, the lightest, fluffiest things this side of a goosedown pillow, alongside a stand-out olive dish that was Heston Blumenthal-clever. It was a spherified liquid olive – which is to say, it looked like an olive, but once popped in the mouth, the outer skin dissolved and aromatised olive oil melted in the mouth. Brilliant. It was served on a wooden spoon beneath a small olive tree. As you do.

Next was a tiny eggshell, hollowed out, with the top removed. It had been filled with a smoked bean puree and coconut foam then lightly dusted with curry powder. Beautiful flavours and textures worked in harmony like a Beethoven overture.

A crab dish followed which was the acme of spring. Freshly picked Cornish cock crab with sweet, aromatic elderflower and salty Cornish sea herbs was brilliantly fresh. It tasted of the seaside, had the elegance of a ballerina and was the first of several standouts.

Lamb with liquorice came next. Beautifully cooked sweetbreads had been studded with flecks of liquorice to provide sensational flavour. My partner ate a trout and almond course, deconstructed, and purred her approval.

Blonde French asparagus spears preceded our main. Single, oversized spears were dressed with hibiscus gel and puree and tiny edible flowers; offering Caravaggio-esque beauty and flavours that stood out. And while she then ate the tenderest piece of monkfish, surrounded by tiny pieces of vegetable and with an immaculate sauce, I ate roast veal, served from a carvery trolley, with a remarkably enjoyable gratin of potatoes, a pot of almost-crunchy green vegetables and a ginger-infused gravy. Utterly, utterly brilliant. Both mains were fun to eat and featured invigorating flavours that elevated the senses.

For dessert, she ate a strawberry and chocolate sphere, the chocolate enveloping a delicious cream and strawberry puree, while I ate the sweetest honey madeleines this side of a beehive with scoops of homemade hazelnut and vanilla ice cream. The vanilla was so richly infused with beautifully aromatic vanilla beans that it looked as though someone had dropped a packet of poppy seeds into the machine. It was ice cream plus, plus, plus. We ate strawberry jellies and salted caramel chocolates afterwards and thanked the restaurant staff for providing such a remarkable experience.

Great food is about creating memories – whether that’s brilliant fish and chips at the beach, a sensational curry on a banana leaf, exquisite sashimi from a fish straight from the sea or the best lunch of the year at one of the world’s greatest and most iconic dining rooms. And Bosi’s food provides the happiest and long-lasting memories of all. It did it in Ludlow – I can still taste a magnificent partridge dish, though I ate it 18 years ago – and it does at his most recent and best restaurant, Bibendum.

Unquestionably the best chef ever to have cooked in Shropshire, the former Ludlow cook is on the path to greatness. Bibendum is to Bosi what David was to Michelangelo. He is creating his last and greatest restaurant.