Food review: Great food in smart setting at Red House

Ok it was Thursday when we tried to book, and we wanted something for Friday or Saturday night, but it proves that they are doing something right here, so we settled for Sunday.

After its almost £1 million makeover, The Red House in Lilleshall opened its doors in September last year. It is the latest venue taken over by the Parogon Group which owns a handful of other restaurants across the Midlands.

For me, it’s places like this that Telford and surrounding areas are crying out for.

The feel is relaxed dining, lots of big padded leather seats, classy velvet panelling and a lovely wooden floor throughout. A contemporary style with touches of industrial metal finishings and wooden structural beams.

As you arrive you are welcomed by staff who show you to your table. Near the entrance are two large booths with round tables, almost resembling a wishing well with the metal structure above creating a dome, creating a very intimate feeling.

As you walk to the right, there is a bar area with tall tables and bar stools to grab a drink before your meal. Everywhere is beautifully lit, with up-lighting on the exposed brick wall and the geometric patterned tiles near the bar.

We were seated to the left of the building, in a side room packed full of diners.

Unfortunately, our lovely waitress broke the bad news that they had stopped serving the Sunday Roast menu at 5pm, and it was now 5.30pm.

I couldn’t see anywhere obvious on their website about this, after checking out the menu online, and was undecided whether to go for the Roast Staffordshire Beef, or the Roasted Honey & Mustard Glazed Ham. Now I had to make some new decisions.

I suppose it is called Sunday ‘lunch’, so maybe that was my fault, but be aware if you have the same plan.

Browsing through the menu, there are various different sections. They do a breakfast menu, from granola and pastries, full English and a range of egg dishes, to belgian waffles and breakfast tacos. One to come back and try.

There is also a stone baked pizza menu, alongside the other standard menus. In the centre of the restaurant, there is an open pizza kitchen, and they have a large pizza oven and pizza chef, again all looking very in keeping with the decor.

We ordered drinks, and water for the table arrived straight away without asking. After a little while, we made our menu choices.

As is often the case, my wife and I couldn’t decide, so we went for two starters to share. The Crispy Beef Strips with sticky sauce and the Crispy Duck with pancakes and hoisin seemed like winners, and we weren’t disappointed!

The beef strips had a perfect heat in the coating, and with lime for freshness and the sweet sticky sauce, it all worked a treat.

The duck was the showstopper though, presented in a bamboo steaming basket on what looked to be a plate of gravel, similar to a Chinese water feature – nice idea. I felt like I was a judge on The Great British Menu it was presented so well.

There was a duck leg with all the trimmings, ready to be shredded. It pulled well and when I assembled the pancakes, the fresh cucumber, spring onion and tangy hoisin sauce cut through the fatty duck really well.

On to the mains and we had opted for Beef En Croute and Slow Roasted Belly Pork. Having been asked our choice for the beef, pink or cooked through, it came out blushing and tender with a crispy pastry.

The braised red cabbage was perfect with a crunch and slightly sweet, but the dauphinoise potatoes were not as garlicky as I thought they might be, with more of a herby, vegetable stock style, rather than a creamy texture, and maybe a touch more firm than you’d like, but nice all the same. This came with baby carrots and a Merlot wine sauce which accompanied well.

The pork was well presented on a huge plate and it just fell apart. This came with sweet potato mash with roasted carrots, spinach and caramelised apple sauce, with black pudding.

After finishing our food, our plates weren’t cleared for a while, but to be fair, they looked like they had just come off a busy Sunday lunch service, and it was in a bit of a changeover period, but still quite busy. I think our waitress got slightly distracted, but as soon as another waiter clocked the situation, he took over and a dessert menu was presented.

Feeling pretty full, but unable to resist the temptation, we opted to share the White Chocolate & Raspberry Cookie Dough. A base of half-baked sweet cookie dough came out with creamy vanilla ice cream in a hot skillet, with a touch of tang from the raspberries. It was just what we needed.

The outside has a large patio area with a big pagoda, and it all looks like they are ready to set up with a large amount of seating for the warmer months. There is also another garden section, further round, again with areas that look like chairs, tables and benches will appear.

So, I’m excited to go back especially when the sun is shining, and we are actually allowed out of the house.

Sample menu

Small plates

Popcorn chicken with lime and Cajun mayonnaise, £6.45

Crispy duck with pancakes and hoisin, £6.95

Salt and chilli squid with saffron mayonnaise, £6.45

Mains

Breaded chicken breast with roasted mixed vegetables, green beans wrapped in a bacon and smoked applewood and garlic sauce, £14.95

Slow roasted belly pork with black pudding, sweet potato mash, roasted carrots, spinach and caramelised apple sauce, £16.95

Herb crusted lamb rump with minted crushed potatoes, carrot purée, tenderstem broccoli, silver skin onions and rosemary and red wine sauce, £17.95

Desserts

Chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, £6.95

White chocolate and raspberry cookie dough with vanilla ice cream, £7.45

Contact information

THE RED HOUSE

Lilleshall, Newport

theredhouselilleshall.co.uk