Travel review: The Lakes retain their magic

It has long been a favourite destination for Brits looking for a getaway not too far from home, and has inspired poetry, literature and art from Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit tales and Wordsworth’s Daffodils, to the paintings of Alfred Heaton Cooper.

It was dark by the time we reached the northernmost tip of Lake Windermere one Friday evening in November – the wintry night spilling smatterings of stars into the glassy black expanse of water as we wound around it – so the postcard-perfect view of England’s biggest lake was a glorious surprise that first morning.

Pinks and oranges bled from the dawn sky into the water below, hills rising and falling around its shores, locals and holidaymakers stepping out for early morning strolls before breakfast.

It would have been easy to stand on the balcony soaking it all in, complimentary hot chocolate in hand, for the rest of the morning, had it not been for the sharp chill on the breeze.

Its prime position is one of the Waterhead Hotel’s trump cards, but is by no means its only selling point. While the Lake District boasts countless traditional B&Bs, all beams and fireplaces, the Waterhead, part of the English Lakes chain, stands out from the crowd.

Its 41 boutique rooms are plucked straight from the pages of interior design magazines; light and spacious with plush furnishings in tasteful browns and purples, while local art adorns the walls. The glimmering tiled bathroom was stocked with fluffy towels and high-end toiletries, while we were spoilt for choice with the selection of coffees and teas.

But it’s the little touches that make you feel instantly at home: cosy dressing gowns; local jelly beans and nuts in little glass jars; the toy dog wearing the ‘do not disturb’ tag (you can steal him for £25, with half going to charity). To top it off, the hotel offers free use of the leisure facilities at another English Lakes hotel a mile down the road.

The bar and grill, fully accessible on the ground floor, as are two guest rooms, are popular among guests and non-guests alike. While the menu was concise, each dish, conjured from local ingredients, looked so appealing it took a while to make our selections. We both opted for the ham hock terrine to start, then fillet steak for me and pork medallions for the other half. The steak was the best I’ve had, succulent and perfectly cooked, while the tender pork was accompanied with a delicious creamy mushroom sauce. We decided before our chocolate assisette and sticky toffee pudding arrived that we’d not bother finding somewhere different to eat the following night. We returned to the room suitably full and settled into the king size bed for an early night in front of the flat screen TV. The Lakes are a particular draw for the outdoorsy types, out for a weekend of hiking, climbing and kayaking. But at eight months pregnant, and with the weather certainly not in our favour, we opted for a short drive out to one of the region’s historic towns to explore.

Windermere, Bowness and Ambleside are all just a stone’s throw away, but we decided to venture north to Keswick. After eventually finding a parking space, the thriving town centre market and multitude of attractions – including the famous Pencil Museum – kept us busy for the day. A particular highlight was Puzzling Place, a fascinating, if slightly tired, museum full of optical illusions and visual enigmas.

Still stuffed from breakfast at the hotel – a mouth-watering full English with as much cereal, pastries and toast as you could eat – we shared a bag of chips on our way back to the car, not wanting to fill up before our second dinner at the hotel. This time we skipped starters and went straight for lamb shank (me) and venison (him), which proved that last night’s delicious meals were no fluke.

Each member of staff we encountered, from receptionists to cleaners, were nothing but courteous and genuinely eager to help. Special mention to the restaurant staff.

After a second hearty breakfast we reluctantly checked out, and with a morning to kill before heading home, we were almost tempted for a boat trip, which set off from directly opposite the hotel. But after watching the previous boat come in with its passengers holding their hoods tight against the unrelenting wind and sudden downpour we quickly changed our minds, instead taking a stroll around a nearby park with spectacular views of the lake stretching out to the south (and plenty of shelter). Too soon it was time to return to the hotel car park and set off for home, promising to return when the sun does.

The Waterhead Hotel, Lake Road, Ambleside. Telephone 0333 220 3106 or visit englishlakes.co.uk/waterhead for more details.