When I see spring lamb I just think of mint sauce

At this time of year, the rolling hills and green valleys are particularly special as spring comes into full bloom. The countryside is a riot of colour, with vibrant greens, splashes of yellow gorse and fields of rape seed, pink blossom on the trees and much, much more.

One of the most uplifting scenes is the sight of spring lambs playing in their fields. Now, I have to be honest: I hear a sadistic voice inside whenever I drive past a field full of spring lambs. The devil on my shoulder says: 'Hmm, delicious, I'd better make a mint sauce'. I don't suppose I'm the only chef who thinks that.

Spring lamb is a real treat. I think people in our region are blessed – and I'm talking about those in the Black Country, as well as people in leafy Shropshire. All of us are within driving distance of the countryside and many of the region's butchers get supplies from local farms.

I never understand why more people don't use local butchers. It's never been more important to know where your food comes from. Recent food scares have proved that. In some cases, people can ask their butcher which farm – or, literally, which field – their lamb came from.

It upsets me, sometimes, that the supermarkets don't latch on. The other day, I visited my local Tesco and the meat counter was full of lamb. When I looked a little closer, I saw most of it was from New Zealand.

I'd like to meet the person who thought it was a smart idea to fly a lamb 11,537 miles from Auckland to Ludlow, when our fields are full of them.

In an age where more and more people are learning about good quality food, it seems utterly bizarre that lambs would be flown half way around the world when they're growing up in the fields less than a mile away.

The message for me is simple: buy from your local butcher. The meat they sell will be traceable and your butcher won't have spewed tonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere by flying food from A to B.

I'm a big fan of spring lamb because it's tender and sweet. It's not the cheapest of meats, but the non-prime cuts, such as shoulder and breast, are fantastic value.

If you're cooking it at home, you could try some of the classic marriages by pairing it with rosemary, garlic and thyme. Ingredients that bring out the sweetness of the meat, like fresh garden peas, also make for great combinations. Spring has sprung – bring out the lamb.

l Will Holland is one of the UK's most successful young chefs. He earned a Michelin star before the age of 30, was named as one of the 10 most influential chefs for the present decade and is the chef-patron of La Becasse, in Ludlow.

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