The Golden Cross, Shrewsbury
There was an ocean of tables. As we walked into the Golden Cross on a summery, sunny evening; the empty spaces stretched before us like the Pacific.
In the far corner, there were two islands – or, rather, tables of guests. Diners were already enjoying early evening sustenance amid the vast empty space.
Our waitress led us into the dining room and, not unreasonably, we imagined we be tucked away in a quiet corner or offered a choice of seat. Instead, we were shoehorned in between the two other sets of diners. It was odd. Very odd. It felt as though the waitress only wanted to work a small area of the room, so as to save her shoeleather.
Our surprise rendered us momentarily incapable of asking to be moved and so we sat, uncomfortably, within earshot of the only other guests while all around us the empty tables sat waiting to be used, like girls at a speed-dating event. We had been so closely positioned next to other guests that we had to move ours an inch or two, so as not to bang elbows.
We assumed that all of the other tables had been reserved and there would be a sudden influx of couples and families. But while the venue filled pretty quickly, there remained free tables by the end of the evening. While we had no particular objection to our temporary neighbours – they were perfectly pleasant and polite – our close proximity to them, when there was ample space elsewhere, was disconcerting. It seemed to have been the result of an inexperienced waitress.
No matter. The Golden Cross is one of Shrewsbury's most reliable restaurants. I've eaten there more times than I care to remember and it's never let me down. Consistent, well-priced and offering ingredients sourced locally, it ticks many of the right boxes.
The venue used to be decorated in peculiar garb: not so long ago, diners would eat against a backdrop of leopard print cloth and dark, wooden furnishings. It was as though they'd been transported to East London circa 1978. On occasions, I've almost been ready for a pork-pie-hatted man to walk in, bid me an 'alright, guv'nor', before opening an Adidas holdall and showing me a bunch of knock-off calculators and asking whether I'd like to purr-chase one.
In fact, Boycie – the star of Only Fools and Horses and general good egg – was recently spotted there during a busy lunch. He wasn't offering second hand cars to other guests, or so the story goes: he'd been invited to the restaurant after opening the Shrewsbury Food Festival and had tucked in with relish. Marlene had apparently not been with him. He'd forsaken his on-screen wife for a real-life one – and apparently they both had a jolly good time.
The Golden Cross has embraced modernity, however, and is now resplendent in calming, neutral colours. It looks as though the man from Farrow and Ball has dropped in to give the place a thorough going over. It's much better for its facelift. The venue feels light and airy and is not as oppressive or dark as it once was. The interior design team that worked on the project deserves congratulation: they have improved the venue no end. Dining is an altogether more pleasant experience when it occurs in convivial surrounds.
The venue retains some of its quintessentially 'Golden Cross' touches, however. The chintzy fittings that used to adorn the venue have not all gone. There are still plenty of tassles and tinkets; shabby chic has been allied to a liberal dose of nice colour – and it's made the venue alluring and smart.
Elsewhere, the venue continues to pay homage to its rich history. The Golden Cross is reputed to be the oldest licensed public house in Shrewsbury and records show that it was used as an inn as far back as 1428, some years before the introduction of formal licensing. Since then, all sorts of things have happened. Corrupt Tory politicians, National Hunt jockeys and mystery tunnels have pockmarked its history.
In addition to making over the interior, the venue has also introduced a new menu. It has introduced a series of Euro-centric social grazing platters, which are perfect for summer. It's as though the heart of historic Shrewsbury has been transported to the Mediterranean. Though my partner and I made other choices from the menu, we noticed a great many people at other tables tucking into vegetarian mezze or pesce misti.
The all-new menu has embraced the best of European cuisine, while continuing to pay homage to the best of Shropshire. It's a pleasing mix and it took me a while to choose between several attractive options.
My partner started with Italian plum tomato which was served with mozzarella and basil on char-grilled bread. It was beautifully presented, with swashes of herb oil to the side. The red, white and green made the plate look like the Italian tricolor and she was pleased with her selection. I opted for the simplest starter of all: a plate of artisan bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I'm a huge fan of good bread. The passion, artistry and devotion to duty of the baker is evident in a good basket of breads and the selection at the Golden Cross were delightful. The sourdough was particularly good and I ate it with gusto.
My partner observed the fish-on-Friday tradition by opting for fish and chips with a minted pea side. The voluminous platter featured some of the best chips I've eaten this year. Golden and fried repeatedly, so that they had crispy edges, they were a treat. They were so appetising that I invented a new game, so as to greedily help myself to them. It was called 'distraction thief'. I hid my mobile phone on my knee and then called her, from across the table. The moment she dived into her handbag to answer her phone, my fork swooped like an eagle on a field mouse. Ker-ching, the chips were mine.
In addition to my partner's chips, I'd opted for a delightful dish featuring wild rabbit with puy lentils. The rabbit was served with wood smoked garlic, pancetta and a white wine reduction. Parts of it were brilliant, others less so. The rabbit was moist and tender and packed with flavour. The pancetta was sweet and crisp, the white wine reduction deliciously piquant and the perfect foil to the sweetly savoury rabbit. The lentils were less appealing. They had been overcooked, as had the finely diced vegetables that accompanied them, giving them an unappealingly mushy texture. Spinach also featured and had been gently wilted by the heat of the rabbit. The flavours and textures – with the exception of the lentils – were well-matched. It was a solid dish.
We took a time out between courses; studiously avoiding the conversation of our neighbours. On Friday evenings, you don't really want to be listening to others discussing salaries and relocation packages for administrative jobs. . .
And so to dessert. My nut-allergenic partner had a choice of one pud, a cheesecake, and so opted for the mascarpone and lime confection, which was served with dark chocolate ripples and mango syrup. It was pleasant, though a little too heavy, and she could not manage it all. I went for the softly-set meringues with a red berry compote and pistachio ice cream. The ice cream was awful, it tasted like perfume, and I left it to one side. The meringue, however, was a treat with a delicately crisp outside and a soft gooey inner. It was topped by a spot of double cream and the compote had been drizzled over it. Our bill for the evening was £60, which we considered perfectly reasonable given the quality of food. There were one or two disappointments but far more delights – the rabbit and my partner's starter among them.
I'll continue to recommend The Golden Cross. It is, for my money, one of Shrewsbury's best – no, that's not fair – one of Shropshire's best dining pubs.
The food is sourced with skill, the food is cooked with affection and the young front of house team does a pretty good job: if they'd have been smarter about their table planning they'd have earned their owners a four out of five rating.
ADDRESS
The Golden Cross, Princess Street, Shrewsbury, SY1 1LP
Andy Richardson
