Holiday review: Salcombe, Devon

Even the most calm and collected among us get to the point when we just want to scream "enough is enough". And when that time comes, only a break away from the rat race will do.

So it was with a sense of relief that we found ourselves heading down the M5 destined for two-and-a-bit days of salty sea air and cream teas in Salcombe, Devon.

As we edged ever closer to our hotel, Soar Mill Cove, the reception bars on our phones disappeared one by one – always a good sign you're in for a relaxing break.

The hotel itself is just a quick car ride from the ice cream-coloured town centre of Salcombe but feels like it's in a world all of its own. Nestled among lush green hills, it looks out to the sea and its own little cove, punctuated by the crashing tide and jagged rocks. In short, it's heavenly. Not to mention a must for all hikers, dog walkers and fans of the great outdoors.

For three generations, the Makepeace family have been at the helm – and have just given the site a revamp, breathing new life into the rooms and adding on swimming pool and spa facilities.

We plonked our bags down and wasted no time in strolling through the patio doors and straight down to the beach below.

With shoes and socks off, jeans rolled up, our feet melted into the cool sand as we breathed in our first bit of fresh air in months. The beach was all but deserted bar a lone dog walker and young family armed with fishing nets and brightly-coloured windmills.

We sat on the rocks for a while, drinking in the sunshine and silence, before the draw of an authentic cream tea proved too much for me and I dragged the boyfriend back up the hill.

The floor-to-ceiling windows of the hotel lounge ensured we still got to enjoy the stunning view as fat crumbly scones, tangy jam and steaming cups of coffee arrived at our table. We also took on a game of chess, starting a mini obsession that lasted the rest of the holiday. The final score? 7-0 to him. Let's move on.

The two-Rosette restaurant at Soar Mill Cove is an attraction in itself and head chef Ian MacDonald ensures only the freshest, locally-sourced ingredients make it on to the plates.

Obviously, market-fresh seafood is the star of the show and during our visit we tucked into lobster, prawns, clams, scallops and monkfish. But don't worry if you're not a fish fan, there's plenty of meaty morsels on the menu too.

Like the lounge, the restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing guests to watch the sun set as they enjoy their evening meal. Aside from perhaps the most stunning sunset this country has to offer, we also saw rabbits and foxes on the nights we dined in there.

During our second day, we eyed up the South West Coast Path and a day of strolling along atop the cliffs. However, I was lured into the spa for a back massage instead and he wanted another few hours napping, paddling and reading the paper on the beach. Plus, we had chess games to timetable in. Things had got serious by this stage.

The revamped rooms at Soar Mill Cove are light, airy and boast huge, comfortable beds. The only thing we could find fault with was the thinness of the walls: we heard every door shut, baby cry and, on one morning, a poor chap feeling the effects of the previous night's two bottles of wine. Don't ask. Shudder.

But it is a beautifully-run family hotel and it's clearly the sort of place guests return to again and again. There are also three self-catering retreats if you want to get even further away from the maddening crowd.

Blissed-out and feeling human again, we rounded off our trip with a visit to Salcombe, a more picture-perfect town you could not wish for.

Children lined the harbour with their lines and buckets for a spot of crabbing, people relaxed on benches enjoying the view of the shimmering sea and the town was alive with tourists booking boat tours, buying salty fish and chips and taking pictures of the blue, pink and yellow houses.

We strolled around, making the most of every last bit of fresh air, sunshine and ice cream before the motorway beckoned once again and we were back to the real world.

The cream teas, sunbathing and games of chess were gone, the reception bars on our phones were back. I think that's what they call checkmate.

Salcombe, Devon by Elizabeth Joyce