Review: Romolo, Shrewsbury

SEV-UHN. I feel like Len Goodman on Strictly Come Dancing.

The avuncular dispenser of positive criticism might well have written this week's review, for the mark is Len's favourite: SEV-UHN. Thanks Len. Good on you.

Len's a good guy. He knows when people are making an effort, he understands that mistakes sometimes happen and he's not the harshest critic to walk the earth. He picks out the positive aspects of a performance. This week's review is written in a similar vein. We're focusing on the plus points, while picking out aspects of the Romolo experience that might be improved.

Romolo is run by one of Shropshire's best operators, Franco Subiani. He opened it with a small-but-perfectly-formed team five years ago and it's become an integral part of Shrewsbury's dining scene.

Franco and co deserve all credit. Though Romolo occupies a prime position on Victoria Quay, overlooking the river, there are others who had previously tried and failed to run restaurants on the site.

The premises witnessed a number of business failures prior to Franco's takeover and it's been a considerable achievement to have created an enterprise here that's simultaneously profitable and popular. Long may that continue.

Franco made his name locally at the Albright Hussey, one of Shropshire's most venerable restaurants, which is now run by his charming son, Paul. He decided to indulge his passion for Italian food around 2009, when he created Romolo.

I'm an avowed Italophile with a passion for that nation's great cuisine. I've travelled to all corners and delighted in national staples and regional specialities. Italian cuisine is built around the simplest of things: great flavour.

Aromatic basil and pungent oregano are paired with sweet tomatoes; delicate, silky egg pastas are matched with fresh, ocean-fresh seafood. Earthy, forest-picked wild mushrooms give depth and body to gutsy risottos. Exceptional quality meat is served in simple combinations, with seasonal vegetables and intense sauces.

The Romolo menu features a number of classic dishes. It's unpretentious and unfussy. Tuna steaks are marinated, grilled and presented on a bed of mixed salad leaves. Pork steaks are pan-fried and served with sage butter and mustard mash, linguine is paired with carbonara. There are no surprises and no let downs.

There are, of course, hazards in Romolo's approach. The basis of great Italian cooking is seasonal flavour. So when winter hits, it's hard to get great tasting tomatoes, or sensational vegetables. Imported varieties, or ones grown in glass houses, simply don't pack the same punch. They lack flavour. No matter.

The first thing you notice about Romolo is its location. It's situated beside The Armoury, on the banks of the River Severn, near to Welsh Bridge. Diners enjoy sumptuous views across the water, being able to kick back and relax while they chow down on their plate of pasta.

The interior is spick and span. It's modern, rather than ostentatious; clean, rather than clinical; it's glamorous, without being needlessly glitzy. Franco's many years in the trade have taught him this: people like restaurants that are affordable, provide good quality dishes and have friendly staff. Romolo does all of those things. It ticks those boxes.

It goes beyond that, however. There is a first floor lounge that has become popular with Shrewsbury's discerning drinkers and thrill-seekers. It regularly hosts live music and serves expertly-prepared cocktails, exclusive wines and a good selection of beers.

My visit, however, was predicated on food. I booked a table for a mid-week dinner and was made to feel welcome the moment my shoe leather hit the door mat. Romolo's maître d' greeted me with a warm smile and showed me to a table that overlooked the river.

Given the recent weather, it made me feel as though I was watching a screening of Apocalypse Now. Blustering winds and choppy waters were on view, rather than bucolic, sunny scenes.

I ordered a seasonal starter; venison carpaccio di cervo – venison topped with parmesan served on a bed of rocket. Unfortunately, it was off the menu, presumably because it had proved so popular with guests on preceding nights.

Instead, I opted for calamari fritti – deep fried squid rings on a bed of rocket leaves with tartar sauce. It was fine, nothing to write home about and not particularly special. The calamari had been well prepared, avoiding the over-cooking that leads to rubbery texture. The tartar was fair to middling. Len would have given it a SEV-UHN.

My main course was less than impressive. I selected pollo cacciatore – chicken in a black olive and rosemary red wine sauce. It was served with a delightfully-dressed side salad and a portion of potatoes and vegetables.

The chicken had been overcooked, sadly. It was too dry. And the side orders were poor. The roast potatoes were dreadful. They had the texture of a stress ball; spongey to touch. They certainly hadn't just popped out of the oven, there were no crisp edges and they'd have needed more than 30 minutes cooking time. Who knows how they'd been cooked. I ate one and could eat no more.

However, the sauce was deep and flavoursome. It hit all the right notes. Len would have given the complete dish a five. Craig would have given it a three.

For dessert, I ordered the Cointreau cheesecake. It was rich and filling. The only negative was a squish of chocolate sauce. It was of indeterminate quality and lacked the intensity of a decent ganache.

All of the portions were generous, all of the prices were reasonable and all were served with a smile, including the main, which was served by a black-aproned chef. Len would have given the service a nine. Boom.

Romolo does lots of things really well. Its menu is good, the venue is pleasant, it has a formidable management team and service is first class. I've visited on three occasions and each time it's been a familiar story. Those great foundations are undermined a little by imprecise cooking. The same was true on this occasion. More attention to detail in the kitchen would have yielded a higher mark.

Shrewsbury needs restaurants like Romolo and it's heartening that so many locals support it. That's hardly a surprise when you consider the pricing, the location and the venue.

Aside from its evening service, it offers one of Shropshire's best value lunch menus, with two courses for £8 and three for £10.95. You can't say fairer than that, can you? Craig would call it fab-u-lous.

Romolo goes beyond the basics, offering its own twist on Italian fine dining without straying too far from the classic flavours that make that nation's cuisine among the best on earth. Minor adjustments will only increase its popularity.

So there we have it: SEV-UHN, or in Weekend-speak, 3.5 out of five. Hmm, doesn't quite have the same ring to it, does it?

• We have been asked to point out that the Romolo restaurant was under the ownership of Frano Subiana from its inception until November 29 2013.